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Hair

Abidjan ranks the third least safe city in the world, after Baghdad and N’Djamena, according to a shoddy survey by a consulting group that obviously has never set foot in this country. How they come to...

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Rumors of lightning bolts and human blood

Ivory Coast held parliamentary elections yesterday. We might imagine people were keen to cast their vote after having witnessed ex-president Gbagbo’s dogged sabotaging of the 2010 presidential...

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One more note on the West African sex trade

Stories about prostitutes are a staple of West African newspapers, and I tend to believe they tell us more about what it means to live in poverty than statistics ever can. As a newly arrived...

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Six years without a job

“They say: when life is tough, it’s the tough ones who survive. I’m trying. But I can’t help thinking: why did my life turn out like this? I haven’t always been good, good, good. But even if I had to...

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Merry Christmas

Hand-delivered at the doorstep: a bottle of Moet & Chandon and a bowl of chocolates. With compliments from the presidency's communication department. Ivory Coast finally has a president who has...

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New army, same violent behavior

A trader was shot at point blank range at a checkpoint manned by FRCI soldiers in eastern Ivory Coast. Days earlier, FRCI soldiers melted plastic bags over the naked backs of four men who stood accused...

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East Africa

Hello Tanzania. Hello cheetah. Hello 2012.

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Looking for paradise

After driving hundreds of kilometers on empty roads past square brick farmers’ houses and green savannah filled with thorny shrubs as far as the eye could see, the road went up through glorious...

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Monkey attack

A failed attempt to breakfast on the balcony of our hotel in Tanga.

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Tanzania bis

One more Tanzania landscape picture.

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Getting to know Accra

After almost four months in Accra, I can confidently state that Ghana isn’t the ‘Africa-for-beginners’ it’s made out to be by flippant expats whose stately townhouse or furnished luxury apartment has...

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Classifieds

PUBLIC NOTICE A NEWLY established church needs financial help for Gods Evangelism project to save lost/perishing souls. 024-0081848.STUDENT visa guaranteed to Cyprus, Malaysia, Holland ... etc....

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Unbridled fecundity

Ghana's politicians receive praise for respecting the rules of democracy, that is, for not overtly rigging elections or clinging to power indefinitely. Campaigning for the December elections began soon...

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Things I miss

A blue sky. It's been dirty grey and oppressively overcast since I began working in Ghana four months ago. I had to go to London, of all places, to see this. I felt an odd sense of freedom looking up...

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Moses Gets Married

In the jumble of identical roadside shops and wind-blown gas stations that constitute a typical Accra suburb, it wasn’t easy to find the turn-off. But when we finally spotted Beach Road, the directions...

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Driving

Dark clouds gathered in the eastern town of Ho last week, threatening to unleash a thunderstorm on a ruling party rally. A tempestuous wind blew them onward, and the rain came later, but when it...

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Gold mining in Ghana

When I researched a story about the sudden, and as yet unexplained, influx of thousands of illegal Chinese in Ghana’s gold regions, I was invited to visit a long-established gold mine in the west of...

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Findings 3

Street traders selling scarves, key rings, vuvuzela's and other paraphernalia emblazoned with the faces of political leaders say business is booming ahead of presidential elections next week. Eleven...

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White saviors, and black ones

This is one of the most depressing aspects of Accra: billboards and posters that promise redemption from clean-shaven pastors smiling benignly at the downtrodden flocks. All-night prayer events are...

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Article 5

The funeral of John Atta Mills -- who, in keeping with a tested African tradition, had been trying to hide the gravity of his illness before he died -- propelled vice-president John Mahama into the...

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